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"A crazy adventure": Sophie Lavaud, first French woman to climb all the summits at 8000 meters
On June 26, Sophie Lavaud became the first French woman, of all kinds, to have climbed the 14 summits beyond 8,000 meters on the planet. And the fourth woman of all time to accomplish such a feat. At 55, his prowess has toured the world. But the one who also has Swiss and Canadian nationalities has been discreet. After a holiday (still in the Himalayas) in July, she agreed to give her first interviews and answer RFI.
Sophie Lavaud, the first French woman to climb the 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in the world. © Courtesy of Sophie Lavaud
Text by: Martin Guez Follow
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RFI: Sophie Lavaud, did you expect so many spin-offs after your exploit at the end of June?
Sophie Lavaud: It was completely unexpected. Because it was really a very personal project, I wasn't in a record race or anything at all. But it's still very nice everything that happens to me (laughs).
How did you feel on June 26 at 9:15 am, when you arrived at the top of this mythical Nanga Parbat, at 8,126 meters above sea level?
With hypoxia, you don't think about much. Hypoxia is a peculiarity of very high altitude, when you are lacking oxygen. And above all, we had very complicated conditions, with snow and fog. When you get to the top, you still pull out the cameras to take some pictures, but it was fast. We're talking about just a few minutes at the top eventually. What is very special is that the last altitude camp is at 6,800 meters. There is then 1,400 meters of altitude difference to reach the summit, which is absolutely huge at such an altitude. Finally, we finish with a terrain that is called "mixed", that is to say rocks, ice and snow, to arrive on a very small platform, on which we can not be very many to hold. There were several of us on the expedition, including our Sherpas and, of course, Dawa Sangay Sherpa, who has been with me for years. What was a great joy for me was that all seven of us made it to the top at the same time. But it's still a hostile place, so don't hang around, and you have to go back down.
• CONGRATULATIONS to our amazing team of climbers from Seven Summit Treks for achieving an extraordinary feat of climbing "14 Peaks" this season.
• We are elated to announce that five exceptional individuals have successfully conquered all 14 Peaks - the mountains above 8000... pic.twitter.com/p0ObRCVZRF
— Seven Summit Treks 🇳🇵 (@sst8848) August 2, 2023
How did you get this passion for high peaks? Almost twenty years ago, you climbed your first Mont Blanc, and almost ten years ago, your first 8,000.
That's right! It's a long road. It's a passion that starts in the Alps. But it's true that I was quickly attracted by the summits with the objective of always going a little higher. Then it's a good excuse to travel. As the Alps stop at 4,800 meters, I explored the world. First 5,000, then 6,000, 7,000... When you tackle the 8,000, you have to have time. Climbing a 4,000 in the Alps takes two days. Climbing an 8,000 in the Himalayas takes two months. Everest was the first summit I organized myself for. That's when I really decided to try this crazy adventure. Knowing that this is something I kept to myself for a long time.
You don't define yourself as a full-fledged athlete. However, is the high mountains high-level sport?
Yes, you don't get to 8,000 metres overnight, that's clear. It's a lot of work.
It's dangerous work! Many French people before you have tried this adventure of 8,000 and have not come out unscathed. Mountain tales are full of rescue operations. You get by without any frostbite. What's your secret?
There is no miracle recipe. It's eleven years of work, 22 expeditions, without frostbite, without injury and without evacuation. There is a form of natural prudence and learning to renounce. Twenty-two expeditions for 14 summits means that clearly, it does not work every time. But there is no magic secret.
Nanga Parbat, in the Himalayas. One of the most difficult peaks to reach in the world beyond 8,000 meters. Photographed from northern Pakistan. AP - Musaf Zaman Kazmi
We get to know you on RFI, the radio station of La Francophonie. You have three French-speaking nationalities: French, Swiss and Canadian...
I have all three countries in my heart! The origin of my parents is very French, but I have lived longer in Switzerland than in France in my life. And Canada remains a naturalization passport. There are fewer origins, but it's still a magical country just as much.
You probably know the Norwegian Kristin Harila who, like you, has just climbed the 14 summits. Not in eleven years, but in six months! What do you think?
I know Kristin well! We crossed paths on several summits. She has just finished her challenge by a few months, and I am very much in awe of what she has accomplished. It's an incredible physical performance! But this is a very different way of approaching these great Himalayan summits. I like to take my time.
Finally, what are your plans? Are you going to take a holiday in the mountains?
A holiday, I don't think so, because it's a passion! For me, it's not a "job". It's true that the world of expedition is clearly part of my life now, and I'm not going to stop climbing. Maybe I'll close the 8,000 ledger, because it's still a dangerous world. But the world is vast! There are many other things to see, do and discover.
This photograph taken on April 26, 2023 and published on June 26, 2023 shows Norway's Kristin Harila (bottom left), French, Swiss and Canadian Sophie Lavaud (top left) and Mexican Viridiana Alvarez (right) posing at the top of the Shishapangma summit in Tibet, the 13th peak over 8000m that the French have climbed. AFP - LAMA TENJING
See alsoMountaineering: Sophie Lavaud, first French woman to climb the fourteen summits at more than 8,000m
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