Men's looks seen during the haute couture week in Paris that ends Thursday: "It's recent and it shows the idea of exploring couture in the field of men's wardrobe. The red carpet today is as masculine as it is feminine, it is an important element, "says Serge Carreira, lecturer at Sciences-Po, specialist in luxury interviewed by AFP.
American actor Billy Porter, 53, broke the codes with his hybrid tuxedo-crinoline dress outfits just like Timothée Chalamet, in a backless jumpsuit in Venice last year.
"There are more and more men who allow themselves to be fancy and to be more flirtatious. It's the return of eighteenth-century culture, when men, kings and aristocrats were not afraid to dress and be flamboyant," Pierre Alexandre M'Pelé, editorial director of GQ France, told AFP.
Gender fluidity
The American Thom Browne and the Frenchman Charles de Vilmorin, new entrants to this week of haute couture, mixed the genres on the catwalk as naturally as possible.
Charles de Vilmorin fashion show in Paris, July 3, 2023 © Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
The first with gray suits, his trademark, for him and for her, as well as futuristic coats.
The second with a unisex wardrobe in which pieces can be worn by both a woman and a man.
"If others don't necessarily do it, I have to do it. In real life, there are a lot of men who wear haute couture," Charles de Vilmorin, 26, told AFP.
The ready-to-wear collections are mostly mixed, but haute couture with its evening dresses and vertiginous heels, was until now a privilege of women.
White sequined suit: Indian fashion designer Rahul Mishra originally did not plan to have it worn by a man.
Rahul Mishra fashion show in Paris, July 3, 2023 © Bertrand GUAY / AFP
"The jackets, the bespoke coats were not made with that intention, but when we got here, we fitted them on the boys and they looked amazing," he told AFP.
The Lebanese Georges Hobeika also presented some masculine looks such as a gray ensemble, pants, shirt, tie, coat accessorized with a mini-clutch.
Georges Hobeika fashion show in Paris, July 3, 2023 © Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
The Dutchman Ronald van der Kemp has been doing mixed tailoring since the creation of the house in 2024 because he likes "eccentric people".
"Gender fluidity has its place in haute couture. It's time," French fashion designer Julien Fournié told AFP.
He "opened the subject" Tuesday by parading Romain Brau, actor, performer and LGBT figure. Crowned with a tiara on his long red hair, he wore a giant vertugadin while women had militarized looks.
"High potential"
"Men want to dress in haute couture," he says.
Couturier Julien Fournié (r) and actor Romain Brau backstage at the haute cuture show, July 4, 2023 © Alain JOCARD / AFP
"Those who have purchasing power go to London to get a tuxedo or tailor-made suits that remain very classic. They want fantasy, embroidery, very worked leather pieces, "adds Julien Fournié.
A week of men's haute couture, is it possible? "I would not venture on these paths," says Serge Carreira for whom these looks remain for the moment marginal.
"We are not there yet, but in a few years why not," said Pierre Alexandre M'Pelé, adding that this phenomenon has "a strong potential".
The Italian house Dolce & Gabanna, for example, already makes "alta moda" and "alta sartoria" (couture tailor) shows for those "who want to show themselves and have the means to".
And if we do not see men dressed in sewing in the street, "it is because they have much more extravagant lives than ours," he concludes.
neo/may/clr
© 2023 AFP