• Ears, lips, instep and even areas that you do not expect: why you have to apply sunscreen from head to toe (literally)
  • Mistakes and horrors of beauty that we have all (or almost all) made... and why we must never fall into them again
  • No, retinol is not banned, but these are the changes proposed by the European Union

Don't you wear thick socks in the middle of August? Why do you say goodbye to turtleneck sweaters if you go to the beach in summer? Don't you put on some wool ballerinas in the heat wave -unless you are my companion Blanca, by whose feet it seems that the canícula does not pass or step ...-?

If we adapt the wardrobe to high temperatures and the environment, beach or pool, it is worth asking why we should not do the same with the cosmetics we use. And not only in the face of an extreme heat wave like the one we have just gone through, which can affect our skin and make it feel drier and dehydrated, causing a feeling of tightness, irritation and itching due to the greater loss of water and alteration of the barrier function, but throughout the summer.

So yes, dermatologists and cosmetic experts consulted agree: the facial anti-aging care routine in summer and holidays cannot be the same as in the middle of winter. Let's get to it.

Do we have to change the routine in summer compared to summer?

According to Elisabeth San Gregorio, technical director of Medik8, changing the facial routine according to the time of year and the weather is a resounding yes. " In summer, the skin usually asks for lighter textures that provide a lot of hydration, yes, but less lipids. This happens because, usually, in summer, with exposure to the sun, the skin keratinizes, thickens to protect itself. In addition, in beach environments, the humidity favors that the skin does not become dehydrated, "says Estefanía Nieto, technical director of Omorovicza.

On the other hand, in summer it is more common to use products with SPF -although beware, in winter you can not do without filters to finish the facial routine-, which usually offer a certain occlusive work of sealing, so we leave this game, that of preserving hydration, more covered, clarifies Nieto.

In summer the important thing is to enhance products with antioxidant ingredients, "such as vitamin C, E or ferulic acid, essential to offer extra protection of the skin against external aggressors such as solar radiation," concludes San Gregorio. It is a great change: we come from a winter where the main thing is to hydrate and preserve that nutrition with moisturizers, emollients and occlusives, as Elisabeth San Gregorio explains, with products rich in hyaluronic acid, urea, panthenol, bisabolol, but also those that offer a repair, active ingredients such as squalane, ceramides and linonleic acid, not to mention those that seal hydration, such as dimethicone or biosaccharide gum.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

A basic, hassle-free facial routine according to dermatologists

As for the skin care routine on the beach and when the heat tightens, Dr. Marta González, dermatologist at IMR, recommends opting, as we have advanced, "for fluid and fast-absorbing products for the care of your skin, in addition, you can store certain creams in the fridge to help you cool down. " Avoid instead the use of creams or ointments that can overhydrate the skin and cause the appearance of acne or worsen pre-existing conditions.

Some molecules that stand out, for good, of summer routines, are hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which help attract water and restore the skin's barrier function. More? "The use of facial mists with sunscreen facilitates the reapplication of sun protection when humidity is high, and the hot springs act as soothing and refreshing," says the expert, as an infallible two-in-one.

What assets to use in summer... and which ones don't: a practical guide

By way of summary, so that the beauty routine does not complicate a summer that, we hope, is pleasant and rested, Dr. Conchita Pinilla, an expert in plastic and aesthetic surgery, provides us with this guide of yeses and noes for summer skin:

  • YES. Photoprotection spf 50+ against radiation. Not for much to say it is worth remembering, because "the solar radiation of the summer multiplies the appearance of spots and worsens the existing ones".
  • Take a break from hydroquinone. It is the most powerful anti-stain active at the cosmetic level, but "in summer you have to rest from certain ingredients, such as hydroquinone (we can resume it in September), taking into account that solar radiation is more powerful than the rest of the year".
  • YES. Switch to phytic and kojic acid. "I advise cosmetics with phytic acid, with great antioxidant properties, and kojic, which is anti-stain and unifier of tone and scars; Both can be used at night in summer with extreme sun protection during the day."
  • NO... Forget your eye contour. It is a time when we squint a lot in the sun, and being the skin so thin, it suffers more with ultraviolet radiation, so it is advisable not to forget to apply the specific treatment for the contour and arrive with the SPF to cover this area.
  • NO to photosensitizers. Precisely because "the sun hits" more than ever, we must be careful with the active ingredients that produce sensitivity under the sun on the face and neck, such as bergamot essence, and medications that photosensitize to the sun, such as corticosteroids.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

And retinol in summer, yes or no?

It is the eternal question for the summer, do I have to abandon cosmetics with retinol? "Many people are afraid to stick with retinol in the summer. The reality is that if a skin is retinized, that is, accustomed to the molecule, and during the day uses the strict sun protection that we should all use, it can continue with it. As we know, retinol, derived from vitamin A, is the anti-aging ingredient that has scientifically proven greater power in the fight against wrinkles, spots, flaccidity and when it comes to improving skin texture and acne marks, "says Pinilla.

So where does the idea that retinol and summer are intimate enemies come from? Well, there are many experts who, out of prudence, prefer to remove retinol during the summer months, lest you do not continue with sun protection to the letter and there are consequences on the skin. Ah! And what should not be done in any way is to 'premiere' with retinol in summer. Never!

What is recommended "is to reduce the frequency of application of retinol at night on the beach since in dehydrated skin for a day in the sun can cause irritation or dryness more easily," says Dr. Manuel Ballesteros, dermatologist at IMR.

And, attention, the same can happen due to the effect of saltpeter or chlorine on the skin, when the skin is more sensitized. "Try to lower the concentration, decrease the frequency or stop using it while the irritation lasts. In the morning use a serum or cream that repairs the skin barrier and regenerates, "concludes Dr. Conchita Pinilla.

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